Miso-glazed salmon
Ivan Orkin points out that this glaze — miso, mirin, sake — is one of the oldest combinations in Japanese cooking, and it works because the sugars in the mirin caramelise against the broiler heat while the miso's amino acids intensify. The fish underneath stays almost raw in the centre if you do it right. The difference between overnight marination and 20 minutes is the difference between the flavour being on the surface and being in the fish.
Ingredients · serves 2 for 3 days
Method
Make glaze and marinate — overnight if possible
Whisk miso, mirin, sake, and sugar until smooth. Pat salmon completely dry with paper towels — moisture is the enemy of caramelisation. Coat fillets generously on all sides. Marinate at least 2 hours, overnight is significantly better. The miso proteins and sugars need time to penetrate.
Wipe before broiling
Before cooking, lightly wipe off excess surface miso with a paper towel — leave a thin coating, not a thick paste. The thick outer layer burns before the rest of the glaze caramelises. Preheat broiler to maximum.
Broil close to the element
Line a tray with foil, lightly oiled. Salmon skin-side down. Broil 8–10cm from the element for 8–10 minutes — no flipping. The glaze should go deep caramel with slight char at the edges. The salmon is done when it just flakes when pressed at the thickest point. Slightly underdone is better than over.
Rest and garnish
Rest 2 minutes before serving. Scatter sesame seeds and thinly sliced scallion. To reheat: cold pan, splash of water, low heat with lid on — never high heat or microwave.